Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga Aims For “Mature” Collection Options

[balenciagafan]

The first sign that Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga is growing up was the invitation. Rather than the routine fax, it was an actual paper invitation. And then the location: the gilded Hotel Crillon rather than the line’s routine Left Bank headquarters.

So we should have expected a new direction – and we got it. The soft, feminine side of Ghesquière’s Balenciaga. The skirts were expertly draped – a new move for the designer – and the silky dresses in busy, but though-provoking patterns clung to the body, yet with enough draping and detail to hide a few flaws. There were lovely gray slacks with small pleats placed out near the hip – more flattering to tummies.

In the past, Mr. Ghesquière has shocked us with space-age looks and other designs that become copied and diluted for following seasons. You have him to thank for the high gladiator sandals you’ve been wearing. Yet this season, the designer toned himself down.

While there were references to the 1980s’ – the theme of Europe’s Fall ’09 shows – they were subtle compared to much of what we’ve been seeing. And that, also, shows a level of maturity.

Mr. Ghesquière, in a gray sweater and jeans, surrounded by French clients who declared the collection “formidable,” smiled with excitement. “I wanted something slower and more mature,” he said. “Very French and Parisian.”

[Ordercemayory]

balenciaga is a very well made and established designer. you can always see nicole richie carrying one